Thierry Guéguen

 
  • La Tête dans les Nuages 8a, traverse. start at the ledge of Le Grand Toit (6c+), traverse to the left to the big crack, climb down via this crack, low traverse for 2m, then up in the roof, traverse to the colonnettes and exit in Le Grand Toit as in the end of Embuscade .
  • La Boucle du Déversoir 8a, traverse. sitstart to the extreme left of the platière, traverse to the start of Le Bout du Monde , return via a low traverse to the starting point and exit via a mantle. see also : La Sortie du Déversoir 6c
  • Grain de Beauté 8a, traverse. at the end of plot n°764, in the triangle formed by the paths Mendel (GR1), Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard. Eliminating : without upper ledge.
  • Ascendência 8a, traverse. 80m from Shaolin , on the South side of the plateau, 20m to the left of Les Paires Dodues . Access : follow the blue path from Sa Pelle au Logis ; just before a characteristic roof, take a small path to the left for 100m along the crest. The traverse is 30m underneath a viewpoint on Milly-la-forêt.
  • Trash Vortex Evolution 8a, slightly overhanging, traverse. on an isolated boulder on the North of La Route des Accords. Low start on the ledge 1m50 to the left of International Power , climb the 50° overhang, traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face in La Pourpre des Rois retour . see also : Trash Vortex 7b+
  • International Power Trash 8a, slightly overhanging, mantle, traverse. on an isolated boulder on the North of La Route des Accords. Start in International Power , traverse to the right and exit by a mantle in Trash Vortex . see also : International Power 7c, International Power gauche 7c+
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  • Sens Dessus Dessous 7b+, roof, sitstart. on the top of the ridge, 50m to the West of Retour aux Sources , on the other side of the erosion zone than the orange circuit. Sitstart with a big pocket as for Les Pieds dans la Lune , but exit via the arete to the left. see also : Les Pieds dans la Lune 7a+ (7a)
  • Gargamel 7c, overhang, high. Topo boulder D. to the right and above the GR 13, on the first (5m) high boulder of Elephant West.
  • Vire-Volt 7b+, roof. left of the roof
  • Volt Face 7c, roof. right of the roof
  • Vieille Canaille 7b+, roof, mantle, traverse. traverse to the right and exit on slopers in the roof on the low boulder to the right of 5bis, Graviton .
  • L’Afrique direct 7b+, wall, high, crimps. on the boulder just right of Nadine... . Direct version of L’Afrique without the big bowl on the left. see also : L’Afrique 7a+
  • Tarmac 7c, sitstart, traverse, slopers. sitstart at the angle backside boulder with Échine , exit left and up via slopers.
  • Water Roof 7b+, roof, underclings. in the roof behind the football field. From undercling direct to edges. Exit right (7b+) or left (7c by C. Roumegoux). Access : from the cimetary, cross the football field and continue on the right up the slope. The boulder is near the top, in a pit exposedd to the North. see also : Bégnots Story 7a (7a+), Waterloo 7c (7c+)
  • Prima Vera 7b+, traverse. long traverse on three faces. Start in the corridor to the opposite of La Jéjenne (A Lilou Ya debout) , traverse to the right, pass two angles and exit completely right in the slab above a small boulder.
  • Petite Hyène 7c, traverse. traverse to the right and exit completely right after an arete in a wall/slab. Update : lichened (April 2012).
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  • Les Pieds dans la Lune 7a+, roof, sitstart. 50m from Retour aux Sources , on the top of the ridge, in the Western part of the area, on the other side of the erosion zone than the orange circuit. Sitstart with a big pocket as for Sens Dessus Dessous , but exit to the right without the arete (6c otherwise). see also : Sens Dessus Dessous 7b+ (7b)
  • L’Appel de la Forêt 7a, traverse, slopers. in the sector le Plaid (topo Roc’n Wall 23), on a boulder 100m to the Northo of Alléluia . Traverse on slopers and exit at the top of the face, before or after the angle.
  • Boule de Nerfs 7a, overhang, crack. sector Église (topo Roc’n Wall 23). 7b+ if prolongated by traverse
  • Eden Roc 7b, arete, slopers. Sector Église (sitstart 7c). On the backside boulder with Bibendum and Boule de Nerfs .
  • Alléluia 7a+, arete. arete right hand in the sector Le Plaid, on the other side of the path from the main sector (see the topo in Roc’n Wall n°23).
  • La Traversée de Bibendum 7b, overhang, traverse. in the Sector Église (topo Roc’n Wall n°23). Start to the right, low traverse and exit in Bibendum . see also : Bibendum 6c
  • Le Déversoir 7b, traverse. back traverse of Le Bout du Monde (seperate area underneath the circuits in the forest). Sitstart completely left with a marbled hold, traverse with top holds and finish under the roof, at the starting point of Le Bout du Monde . NB : it is also possible to continue to the right on broken holds in Le Petit Bout du Monde and exit at the very end of the face (7b+). see also : Le Bout du Monde 7a, Le Bout du Monde prolongé 7c (7c+)
  • Fou de Toi 7a, roof, sitstart. small overhang 5m to the left of 9bis, Vague à l’Âme and 8, Le Plat Pays .
  • 7, Le Presse-Purée 7a+, prow, sitstart. sitstart of an overhanging prow two boulders behind 2, Les Beaux Quartiers .
  • La Directe de l’Oreille 7a+, overhang, high. on the boulder to the right of Peter Pan . Direct start of L’Oreille de la Priscille (without using the left hold). see also : L’Oreille de la Priscille 6c+ (7a)
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  • À Mains Nues 6b+, sitstart. n°A4 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir . see also : Jeu de Paumes 7a+, Éblouissement 7b
  • Tape à l’Œil 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart. n°21 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir .
  • Le Haut du Pavé 6b+, slightly overhanging. n°26 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir ; 7a+/7b from the bottom. see also : Délit d’Haut Pignon 7a+ (7b)
  • Des Racines et des Ailes 6c+, slightly overhanging, crack, dyno. n°28 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir ; jump start (morpho) to the right.
  • Equilibrium Tremens 6b+, slab, expo. n°30 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir , in a pit, just after "Des Racines et des Ailes"; 5c with left arete.
  • Grand Large 6c, wall, crimps. on a high isolated wall (4 to 5 meters high). Start 3m to the right of the crack with good holds, take an undercling and exit with crimps. Access : follow for about 400m the path that skirts the cemetery up to a bend to the left and take a small path to the right for 50m. see also : La Traversée du Grand Large 7a
  • No Grade 6b+, slightly overhanging, crack, expo. left crack (slightly morpho) on a big boulder on the plateau (6b from the stone). Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, take the GR, cross the two classical areas and go up the hill. The boulder is located on the top, 25m to the right of the path.
  • Séant 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart. sitstart and direct exit at the beginning of the traverse of L152 .
  • Pole Position 6c, wall, arete. on the boulder to the right of Petite Hyène .
  • Shooting 6b+, wall. 50m to the South of the boulder of Projection Privée .
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  • Ma Qué Bella ! 6b, slab, high. n°14 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir .
  • P’tit Gosse 6b, wall. to the left of Sale Gosse , on the boulder of 5, Le Passage à Tabac .
  • L’An Dallouse 6a, slab, wall, high. right problem on a boulder along the GR, 50m underneath the plateau, past the classical sector. see also : Speed Dallouse 6b
  • Speed Dallouse 6b, slab, wall, high. on a boulder along the GR, along the GR, 50m underneath the plateau, past the classical sectors. Start as for L’An Dallouse but exit to the left in Devoir de Vacances . see also: L’An Dallouse 6a
  • 0 6b, arete. left arete on a big boulder, 10mn far from the parking lot. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, follow Le Chemin de la Gorge du Bois Feuillé for 150m up to a crossing and go up the slope for 100m towards an old quarry. The boulder is then 30m on the right of the path.
  • 0 6a, slab. to the left of an album 10092, on a big boulder, 10mn far from the parking lot.
  • 0 6a+, wall. on the left face of the boulder of Projection Privée .
  • 0 6b, wall, dyno. just right of Le Miroir .
  • Belle Paire 6a+, slab, expo. n°4 of the topo Point de Vue. Direct slab to the left of the arete of Suite Royale .i Access : follow a path perpendicular to La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 60m before the start of the orange circuit AD+ of Franchard Isatis and take a smaller one in the North face before the boulder of 44 Fillette ; the problem is 30m before Nec Plus Ultra .
  • Senteur Vanille 6b, wall. n°17 of the topo de Franchard Point de Vue.
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  • Patte d’Ours 5+, slab. n°18 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir ; possible challenge without hands!
  • Suite Royale 5+, slab, arete. n°3 of the topo Point de Vue. 6m high arete just right of the slab of Belle Paire . Access : follow a path perpendicular to La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 60m before the start of the orange circuit AD+ of Franchard Isatis and take a smaller one in the North face before the boulder of 44 Fillette ; the problem is 30m before Nec Plus Ultra .
  • Petit Quelque Chose 5+, slab. right problem on a boulder above and to the left of Bon Pied and Bon Œil , 40m above Les Météores , by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
  • Grand Rien 5+, slab. left problem on a boulder above and to the left of Bon Pied and Bon Œil , 40m above Les Météores , by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
  • Dentelles et Champignons 5 , wall, expo. high wall on the North face of the characteristic 6m high boulder.
  • Délinette 5 , slightly overhanging, arete. left arete on the boulder of AdréAdeline , in the big wall with a characteristic conch in the North face. see also : La Traversée de Délinette 6b (6a)
  • La Dalle de Droite de Beauregard 5-, slab, high. Right problem on the 4m50 slab underneath Le Grand Surplomb de Beauregard. Reference : n°1 of the topo of Thierry Guéguen (PrisesurPrise).
  • Clapotis 6a+, prow. Start on a stone with a big characteristic hold and exit left on the prow. See also Le Clapotis Rondouillard , Ricochet .
  • La Roche Pointue (direct) 6a, slab. South face of the boulder called Roche Pointue, marked with a blue triangle and the number XVII. Without the aretes. See also La Roche Pointue .
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  • Appaloosa 4+, pillar, high. 10m to the right of Mohawk , in the North face, under the crest. Sitstart on the right is 5c/6a.
  • 0 4-, wall. wall (with a scary descent) just under Le Grand Surplomb de Beauregard. Reference : n°4 of the topo of Thierry Guéguen (PrisesurPrise).
  • Ricochet 5 , slab. Start on a stone with a big characteristic hold and exit right on the slab. See also Le Clapotis Rondouillard , Clapotis .
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  • La Roche Pointue 4 , pillar. On the South face of the boulder called Roche Pointue, marked with a blue triangle and the number XVII. See also La Roche Pointue (direct) .
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