Thierry Guéguen

 
  • La Tête dans les Nuages 8a, traverse. start at the ledge of Le Grand Toit (6c+), traverse to the left to the big crack, climb down via this crack, low traverse for 2m, then up in the roof, traverse to the colonnettes and exit in Le Grand Toit as in the end of Embuscade .
  • La Boucle du Déversoir 8a, traverse. sitstart to the extreme left of the platière, traverse to the start of Le Bout du Monde , return via a low traverse to the starting point and exit via a mantle. see also : La Sortie du Déversoir 6c
  • Grain de Beauté 8a, traverse. at the end of plot n°764, in the triangle formed by the paths Mendel (GR1), Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard. Eliminating : without upper ledge.
  • Ascendência 8a, traverse. 80m from Shaolin , on the South side of the plateau, 20m to the left of Les Paires Dodues . Access : follow the blue path from Sa Pelle au Logis ; just before a characteristic roof, take a small path to the left for 100m along the crest. The traverse is 30m underneath a viewpoint on Milly-la-forêt.
  • Trash Vortex Evolution 8a, slightly overhanging, traverse. on an isolated boulder on the North of La Route des Accords. Low start on the ledge 1m50 to the left of International Power , climb the 50° overhang, traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face in La Pourpre des Rois retour . see also : Trash Vortex 7b+
  • International Power Trash 8a, slightly overhanging, mantle, traverse. on an isolated boulder on the North of La Route des Accords. Start in International Power , traverse to the right and exit by a mantle in Trash Vortex . see also : International Power 7c, International Power gauche 7c+
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  • Plastique Fantastik 7b+, traverse, slopers. 10m long traverse on a ledge in the sector Arcades. Start with a jug and exit completely right. Access : from the parking lot of La ferme du Montrouget, pass the main sector, take Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 40m to the East and then a small path up the slope on the South face of "Les Arcades". The traverse is near the top of the hill. see also : Plastique Fantastik en retour-aller 7c+ (8a)
  • Sherpa et Plus si Affinités 7c+, roof, traverse. standing start at the column of Splatch as for Sans Toit ni Loi , low traverse to the start of Sherpa and exit in that one. see also : Sherpa 7c+, Sans Toit ni Loi 7c+ (8a), La Traversée de Sans Toit ni Loi 8a, Hors la Loi 8a, Jeu d’Été 8b (8a+)
  • La Boucle du Facteur Premier 7c+, roof, traverse. start at the exit jug of Le Grand Toit , downclimb the trail, traverse as for Sans Toit ni Loi but continue to the start of Splatch , low traverse to the right and exit in Le Grand Toit see also : Le Grand Toit 7a (6c+)
  • Le Bout du Monde prolongé 7c, traverse. sitstart to the right of the crack and traverse to the left with top holds as for Le Bout du Monde , but continue to traverse and exit at the very end of the face. see also : Le Bout du Monde 7a, Le Déversoir 7b
  • Le Bout du Monde prolongé (par le bas) 7c+, traverse. sitstart to the right of the crack under the roof as for Le Bout du Monde , low traverse to the left and exit at the very end of the face. see also : Le Déversoir (par le bas) 7b+, Le Bout du Monde (par le bas) 7c (7b+), Le Déversoir par le bas en aller-retour 8a+
  • Le Déversoir (par le bas) 7b+, traverse. on the boulder of Le Bout du Monde . Start completely left with a marbled hold, low traverse and finish under the roof, at the starting point of Le Bout du Monde . NB : it is also possible to continue to the right on broken holds in Le Petit Bout du Monde and exit at the very end of the face (7c+). see also : Le Bout du Monde (par le bas) 7c (7b+), Le Bout du Monde prolongé (par le bas) 7c+, Le Déversoir par le bas en aller-retour 8a+
  • Le Plein des Sens 7b+, traverse. exceptionally long traverse (25m; 75 to 80 moves) on an isolated boulder with an old green arrow at the beginning of plot 34, before Focus . Start at the North-West angle, low traverse to the right and exit at the beginning of the East face. NB : a complete traverse of the boulder is also possible (15m more on an easy slab). Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Côtes de Courances, pass the crossing to the right with Le Chemin des Arcades and walk to the West for 60m. see also : Le Plein des Sens en aller-retour 7c
  • Point à la Ligne 7b+, overhang, sitstart, slopers. left problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d’Enclume . Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and then to the left on slopers and exit near a jug. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu’à l’intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu’au thalweg. see also : Ligne de Fuite 6c+ (7a), Ligne de Faîte 7a+
  • Le Manège Enchanté 7b+, traverse, slopers. in the North face underneath the crest. Sitstart, climb the ascending ledge on slopers and exit after the angle. see also : Le Manège 7b
  • La Belle au Bois prolongée 7c+, traverse. traverse on three faces in the center of the North chaos. Start at the rest of quarry as for La Belle au Bois but exit by a mantle after a low traverse in the third face. see also : La Petite au Bois 6b (6c), La Belle au Bois 7b, Réciproque 7b
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  • Couille de Lune 7a, sitstart, traverse, crimps. on the boulder of De la Terre à la Lune . Sitstart on the left, traverse right and exit on crimps to the left of Objectif Lune .
  • Dark Side 7b, overhang, expo, slopers. in the North face, 4m from the red path, above Niak Way / Larmes à l’Œil and 10, Invertébré . Exit on slopers (expo).
  • Les Colonnettes direct 7b, wall, expo, sitstart. n°15 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the left of the GR 13. Direct exit of Les Colonnettes bas . see also : Les Colonnettes 6b, Les Colonnettes bas 7a+
  • Sable Émouvant 7b, slightly overhanging, sitstart. near the top of the hill, 150m from the classical sector of "Le Paradis", to the right of La Traversée de l’Arche . Access : cross the second colza field (past the acacias) and go down by a small path to a caracteristic wall with an arch and a well.
  • La Traversée de l’Arche 7a+, traverse. near the top of the hill, 150m from the classical sector of "Le Paradis", to the left of Sable Émouvant . Access : (from the top) : cross the second colza field (past the acacias) and go down by a small path to a caracteristic wall with an arch and a well.
  • Wo Ping Shaolin 7a+, roof. roof with a direct start from its base at the north-east of the area, in the North face under the ridge past Katagena / Le Basculeur (5/10 minutes walk). Start in Shaolin and exit to the left. see also : Shaolin droite 7a+, Shaolin 7b (7b+)
  • Égérie sans Vergogne 7b, overhang, sitstart. in the Western part of the area, along "La Route des Platières". Sitstart and exit directly.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d’Achères and take La Route des Platières for 700m; the boulder is on the right, 60m before the crossing with La Route de la Hase. see also : Jeu de Pierre 7a+
  • Jeu de Pierre 7a+, overhang, sitstart. left exit of Égérie sans Vergogne , in the Western part of the area.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d’Achères and take La Route des Platières for 700m; the boulder is on the right, 60m before the crossing with La Route de la Hase. see also : Égérie sans Vergogne 7b (7b+)
  • Ty Monos 7b, wall, sitstart, monos. start as for Belle Gueule assis , traverse to the left on monos and exit before the tree.
  • In Extenso 7a+, slightly overhanging, expo. on a big boulder with a bivouac, 150m to the East of the main sector, 15m over the aerial part of the aquaduct. Start 3m to the right of Prestissimo and exit in that problem.
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  • Plouf à l’Eau 6b+, roof, expo, traverse. on the boulder to the left of Diable Rouge , just under the crest, 250m to the East of Hotline . Sitstart completely right, traverse for 5m and exit to the left of the roof as for Allô la Terre, ça Baigne . see also : Plouf à l’Eau en retour-aller 7a, Allô la Terre, ça Baigne 7a (7a+), Allô la Terre 7a+
  • Le Saut du Postillon 6c+, wall. in the plot 765, on the boulder to the opposite of La Piste aux Étoiles . Standing start, take "knob" holds and exit above (slightly morpho). Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route de l’Isatis for 300m up to a sparse group of boulders 50m on the left.
  • Le Haut du Pavé (du bas) 7a+, slightly overhanging. N°26 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir; low start. See also Le Haut du Pavé , Transfert de Bas-Fond (du bas) .
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  • Falbala 6b+, pillar. In the North sector of the area, to the East of the village, near the roof Abri des Francs with Carbone XIV . Tall characteristic man made obélisk, about 5,50m high, along the yellow marked path opposite the Abri des Francs about 70m to the West. Start with two hands on the left arete, exit with the right arete left hand. See also Obélix .
  • Les Pieds dans la Lune (droite) 6c, roof, sitstart. 50m from Retour aux Sources , on the top of the ridge, in the Western part of the area, on the other side of the erosion zone than the orange circuit. Sitstart with a big pocket as for Sens Dessus Dessous , but exit to the right, with the arete. See also Les Pieds dans la Lune , Sens Dessus Dessous .
  • String Paradise (gauche) 6c, slab, wall, arete. Wall to the left of Hotline . Start to the left with the crimps of the slab and exit in the wall by using a hold of Hotline to the right of the arete. See also String Paradise .
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  • Patte d’Ours 5+, slab. n°18 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir ; possible challenge without hands!
  • Suite Royale 5+, slab, arete. n°3 of the topo Point de Vue. 6m high arete just right of the slab of Belle Paire . Access : follow a path perpendicular to La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 60m before the start of the orange circuit AD+ of Franchard Isatis and take a smaller one in the North face before the boulder of 44 Fillette ; the problem is 30m before Nec Plus Ultra .
  • Petit Quelque Chose 5+, slab. right problem on a boulder above and to the left of Bon Pied and Bon Œil , 40m above Les Météores , by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
  • Grand Rien 5+, slab. left problem on a boulder above and to the left of Bon Pied and Bon Œil , 40m above Les Météores , by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
  • Dentelles et Champignons 5 , wall, expo. high wall on the North face of the characteristic 6m high boulder.
  • Délinette 5 , slightly overhanging, arete. left arete on the boulder of AdréAdeline , in the big wall with a characteristic conch in the North face. see also : La Traversée de Délinette 6b (6a)
  • La Dalle de Droite de Beauregard 5-, slab, high. Right problem on the 4m50 slab underneath Le Grand Surplomb de Beauregard. Reference : n°1 of the topo of Thierry Guéguen (PrisesurPrise).
  • Clapotis 6a+, prow. Start on a stone with a big characteristic hold and exit left on the prow. See also Le Clapotis Rondouillard , Ricochet .
  • La Roche Pointue (direct) 6a, slab. South face of the boulder called Roche Pointue, marked with a blue triangle and the number XVII. Without the aretes. See also La Roche Pointue .
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  • Appaloosa 4+, pillar, high. 10m to the right of Mohawk , in the North face, under the crest. Sitstart on the right is 5c/6a.
  • 0 4-, wall. wall (with a scary descent) just under Le Grand Surplomb de Beauregard. Reference : n°4 of the topo of Thierry Guéguen (PrisesurPrise).
  • Ricochet 5 , slab. Start on a stone with a big characteristic hold and exit right on the slab. See also Le Clapotis Rondouillard , Clapotis .
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  • La Roche Pointue 4 , pillar. On the South face of the boulder called Roche Pointue, marked with a blue triangle and the number XVII. See also La Roche Pointue (direct) .
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