Thierry Guéguen

 
  • La Tête dans les Nuages 8a, traverse. start at the ledge of Le Grand Toit (6c+), traverse to the left to the big crack, climb down via this crack, low traverse for 2m, then up in the roof, traverse to the colonnettes and exit in Le Grand Toit as in the end of Embuscade .
  • La Boucle du Déversoir 8a, traverse. sitstart to the extreme left of the platière, traverse to the start of Le Bout du Monde , return via a low traverse to the starting point and exit via a mantle. see also : La Sortie du Déversoir 6c
  • Grain de Beauté 8a, traverse. at the end of plot n°764, in the triangle formed by the paths Mendel (GR1), Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard. Eliminating : without upper ledge.
  • Ascendência 8a, traverse. 80m from Shaolin , on the South side of the plateau, 20m to the left of Les Paires Dodues . Access : follow the blue path from Sa Pelle au Logis ; just before a characteristic roof, take a small path to the left for 100m along the crest. The traverse is 30m underneath a viewpoint on Milly-la-forêt.
  • Trash Vortex Evolution 8a, slightly overhanging, traverse. on an isolated boulder on the North of La Route des Accords. Low start on the ledge 1m50 to the left of International Power , climb the 50° overhang, traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face in La Pourpre des Rois retour . see also : Trash Vortex 7b+
  • International Power Trash 8a, slightly overhanging, mantle, traverse. on an isolated boulder on the North of La Route des Accords. Start in International Power , traverse to the right and exit by a mantle in Trash Vortex . see also : International Power 7c, International Power gauche 7c+
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  • Vol Relatif 7b+. Sitstart left near the stone and exit right of the arete. Access: from Recloses, take Le Chemin de la Butte Blanche up to a path (electric line) just before Sentier de l’Orme to the left that goes up to the plateau. The boulder is near the top, on the right (fence to the left). This boulder is very close to, or just on private property. It is not sure if climbing is tolerated. Please behave respectfully.
  • C’est Toujours pour Ceux qui Savent 7c+, slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart. Left problem in an isolaed roof, 400m from the main sector. Low sitstart on the right, climb the ascending ledge with good holds, climb the overhang with flat underclings and mantle up on the belly 2m to the left of the exit of Seuls les Vrais le Savent. Access: follow the path for 300/400m from the roof of Beauregard and pass a hill; the boulder is on the right of that one in the descent.
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  • 44 Fillette 7b, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. n°2 of the topo Point de Vue, 80m before Nec Plus Ultra ,, near the crest, by following a small path perpendicular to La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 60m before the start of the orange circuit AD+ of Franchard Isatis. Sitstart to the right of Exo 7 and exit directly (7b+) or to the right (7b).
  • Grains de Poussière 7a, traverse, slopers. n°31 of the topo Point de Vue. 13m traverse on a ledge, 20m to the right of Pluie d’Étoiles , to the North-East of the point of view of Hautes-Plaines (alt. 126), about 100m from Nec Plus Ultra . Start at the left angle and exit via a mantle just before the right one (exit after the right angle is 7b ). see also : Grains de Poussière prolongé 7a+ (7b), Grains de Poussière en retour-aller 7c+
  • Le Fer à Repasser 7a, arete, sitstart, traverse. frtl n°14 of topo Point de Vue. Low sitstart to the left, traverse on slopers and exit via a mantle above a small boulder.
  • Burning Man 7a, traverse. n°29 of the topo Point de Vue. 8m long traverse on a boulder with a tree.
  • Mandala Circus 7a, mantle, traverse, slopers. n°39 of the topo Point de Vue. Start in Mandala and exit in Circus (14m long). see also : Circus 6c+
  • Saint-Nicolas 7b, mantle, traverse, slopers. n°43 of the topo Point de Vue. 12m long traverse and exit via slopers.
  • Cul Sec 7a+, sitstart, traverse. n°47 of the topo Point de Vue.
  • Sourires en Coin 7b, traverse. n°52 of the topo Point de Vue.
  • Tirelipinpon 7a+, overhang, sitstart. in a cave to the East of the area. Sitstart as for Cœur de Rêve and exit to the left (easier for tall climbers). Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Pente de la Garenne for 400m, turn right on a path leading to a private house, then left just before the barrier and follow a track along a green fence. On the top of the hill, turn right and find the cave about 80m further, about 50m from a house.
  • Punchy 7a+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. on the top of the South face, in the sector Le Sanglier d’Érythème , 120m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR). Low sitstart as for Brutus and exit to the right. see also : Brutus 7b (7b+)
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  • Plouf à l’Eau 6b+, roof, expo, traverse. on the boulder to the left of Diable Rouge , just under the crest, 250m to the East of Hotline . Sitstart completely right, traverse for 5m and exit to the left of the roof as for Allô la Terre, ça Baigne . see also : Plouf à l’Eau en retour-aller 7a, Allô la Terre, ça Baigne 7a(7a+), Allô la Terre 7a+
  • Le Saut du Postillon 6c+, wall. in the plot 765, on the boulder to the opposite of La Piste aux Étoiles . Standing start, take "knob" holds and exit above (slightly morpho). Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route de l’Isatis for 300m up to a sparse group of boulders 50m on the left.
  • Le Haut du Pavé (du bas) 7a+, slightly overhanging. N°26 ; low start. See also Le Haut du Pavé , Transfert de Bas-Fond (du bas) .
  • Le Toit Cornélien 6b+, roof, crack, sitstart. Roof 80m to the South-West of L’Auvent des Corneilles. Sitstart in the back in the centre of the roof, climb the roof using cracks and exit by a mantle on the ledge. Access: from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. At Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, take Le Chemin des Petites Maisons for 80m and go straight to the left towards a hidden roof for which a dry period is recommended.
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  • Falbala 6b+, pillar. In the North sector of the area, to the East of the village, near the roof Abri des Francs with Carbone XIV . Tall characteristic man made obélisk, about 5,50m high, along the yellow marked path opposite the Abri des Francs about 70m to the West. Start with two hands on the left arete, exit with the right arete left hand. See also Obélix .
  • Les Pieds dans la Lune (droite) 6c, roof, sitstart. 50m from Retour aux Sources , on the top of the ridge, in the Western part of the area, on the other side of the erosion zone than the orange circuit. Sitstart with a big pocket as for Sens Dessus Dessous , but exit to the right, with the arete. See also Les Pieds dans la Lune , Sens Dessus Dessous .
  • String Paradise (gauche) 6c, slab, wall, arete. Wall to the left of Hotline . Start to the left with the crimps of the slab and exit in the wall by using a hold of Hotline to the right of the arete. See also String Paradise .
  • Trou d’Air 6b. Sitstart left near the stone and exit left. Access: from Recloses, take Le Chemin de la Butte Blanche up to a path (electric line) just before Sentier de l’Orme to the left that goes up to the plateau. The boulder is near the top, on the right (fence to the left). This boulder is very close to, or just on private property. It is not sure if climbing is tolerated. Please behave respectfully.
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  • Patte d’Ours 5+, slab. n°18 of the topo de Videlles l’Abattoir ; possible challenge without hands!
  • Suite Royale 5+, slab, arete. n°3 of the topo Point de Vue. 6m high arete just right of the slab of Belle Paire . Access : follow a path perpendicular to La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 60m before the start of the orange circuit AD+ of Franchard Isatis and take a smaller one in the North face before the boulder of 44 Fillette ; the problem is 30m before Nec Plus Ultra .
  • Petit Quelque Chose 5+, slab. right problem on a boulder above and to the left of Bon Pied and Bon Œil , 40m above Les Météores , by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
  • Grand Rien 5+, slab. left problem on a boulder above and to the left of Bon Pied and Bon Œil , 40m above Les Météores , by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
  • Dentelles et Champignons 5 , wall, expo. high wall on the North face of the characteristic 6m high boulder.
  • Délinette 5 , slightly overhanging, arete. left arete on the boulder of AdréAdeline , in the big wall with a characteristic conch in the North face. see also : La Traversée de Délinette 6b (6a)
  • La Dalle de Droite de Beauregard 5-, slab, high. Right problem on the 4m50 slab underneath Le Grand Surplomb de Beauregard. Reference : n°1 of the topo de Thierry Guéguen (PrisesurPrise).
  • Clapotis 6a+, prow. Start on a stone with a big characteristic hold and exit left on the prow. See also Le Clapotis Rondouillard , Ricochet .
  • La Roche Pointue (direct) 6a, slab. South face of the boulder called Roche Pointue, marked with a blue triangle and the number XVII. Without the aretes. See also La Roche Pointue .
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  • Appaloosa 4+, pillar, high. 10m to the right of Mohawk , in the North face, under the crest. Sitstart on the right is 5c/6a.
  • 4-, wall. wall (with a scary descent) just under Le Grand Surplomb de Beauregard. Reference : n°4 of the topo de Thierry Guéguen (PrisesurPrise).
  • Ricochet 5 , slab. Start on a stone with a big characteristic hold and exit right on the slab. See also Le Clapotis Rondouillard , Clapotis .
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  • La Roche Pointue 4 , pillar. On the South face of the boulder called Roche Pointue, marked with a blue triangle and the number XVII. See also La Roche Pointue (direct) .
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