circuit

blocs

  1 Orange 3-,3,3+
  • La Renardeau 3+, slab. sector 2. right problem on the South face of the first boulder of the sector.
  •   2 blue 4-,4,4+
  • Infarctus 4+, slightly overhanging. Sector 2. right problem on the South face of the second boulder of the sector.
  • L’Avant-Goût 4-, arete. Sector 3. arete right hand to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague . see also : L’Angle Escalier 5-
  •   15 red 5-,5,5+
  • Ligne de Fuite 5-, arete. Sector 2. Arete left hand on the North face of the first boulder of the sector.
  • Canon Rock 1 5+. Sector 2. On the East face of the second boulder of the sector. 6a+ in sitstart. See also : Canon Rock 2 6b+
  • Idée Fixe 5 , crack, sitstart. Sector 2. Crack on the North face of the last but one boulder of the sector.
  • Aigre-Doux 5 , slab. Sector 2. second problem from the right on the South face of the first boulder of the sector.
  • Catch en Dalle 5-, slab. Sector 2. second problem from the left on the South face of the first boulder of the sector.
  • Calamine 5+, slab. Sector 2. left problem on the South face of the first boulder of the sector.
  • La Spirale 5 , wall. Sector 3. ascending wall in a "tube", in the South of the sector.
  • L’Angle Escalier 5-, arete. Sector 3. arete left hand to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague . see also : L’Avant-Goût 4-
  • Pince de Pied 5 , arete. Sector 3. right arete to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague .
  • Vigilance 5 , wall. Sector 3. to the left of Faire et Défaire , to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague .
  • Que la Masse Cote direct 5+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Sector 3. small roof 30m underneath La Diagonale . Sitstart at the right of the overhang as for Que la Masse Cote and exit above with good holds. see also : Que la Masse Cote 7a (7c)
  • Faire et Défaire 5+, arete. Sector 3. quarry arete near Au Creux de la Vague .
  • L’Humiliation 5+, slab. Sector 3. slab in a small corridor.
  • Haribo 5 , wall, underclings. Sector 3. wall with an undercling left hand near Au Creux de la Vague .
  • La Fissure 5+, wall, crack. Sector 3. evident crack on the boulder of Poison d’Avril .
  •   18 black 6a,6a+,6b
  • Orphéon 6a, slab. Sector 2. Slab on the West face of the last but one boulder of the sector.
  • Purgatoire 6b. On the left side of an old quarry bivouac, just left of Route Jean, 125m from Route des Gorges de Franchard; mossy.
  • La Rampette 6a, arete, sitstart. Sector 2. Oblique arete to the right on the South face of the second boulder of the sector.
  • Le Suppositoire 6a, wall, arete, expo. Sector 2. Arete right hand on the East face of the second boulder of the sector.
  • Prouesse 6b, prow. Sector 2. Long prow on the North face of the last but one boulder of the sector.
  • Soif d’Action 6b, wall, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Sector 2. On the West face of the last boulder of the sector.
  • Petite Merveille 6a, wall. Sector 2. Direct wall on the East face of the first boulder of the sector.
  • Profil droit 6b, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. Sector 2. on the West face of the first boulder of the sector. see also : Profil gauche 6a+
  • Profil gauche 6a+, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. Sector 2. Arete right hand on the first boulder of the sector. see also : Profil droit 6b
  • Naufrage 6a, crack. Sector 2. Crack on the North face of the first boulder of the sector.
  • Camisole 6b, wall. Sector 2. Second problem from the right on the North face of the first boulder of the sector.
  • La Craignos 6b, wall. Sector 3. above a small round block.
  • Touche-Touche 6b, wall. Sector 3. in a corridor, behind Au Creux de la Vague .
  • L’Astuce 6b, wall, arete, slopers. Sector 3. round wall-arete in the South of the sector.
  • Le Cake 6a, wall. Sector 3. to the left of Haribo , near Au Creux de la Vague .
  • Zip à toute Heure 6b, slab. Sector 3. to the left of Dalle is not Dead , on the North face of the boulder of La Diagonale . NB : recently rebrushed (August 2010).
  • Totale Torsion 6b, wall, crimps. Sector 3. to the right of La Fissure , on the boulder of Poison d’Avril .
  • La Der de Dalle 6b, slab. Sector 3. on the North face of the boulder of Poison d’Avril .
  •   14 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
  • Pafwoman 7a+, slightly overhanging, arete, slopers. Standing start with the flake of Pif, Paf, Pouf , dyno to the lip of the roof, downclimb the arete and exit by the crack of Fatwoman light . NB : first known realization by Filip Notebaert. See also Pif, Paf, Pouf , Fatwoman , Fatwoman light , Fatwoman light en traversée , Goranovitch , Goranovsky .
  • Pouf, Paf, Pif 6c. Standing start with the flake of Pif, Paf, Pouf , traverse with the holds in the middle of the overhang and exit via the left arete.
  • Bloc l’Éponge 6c, roof, mantle, bidoigt. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the right pillar of the bivouac entrance, climb the roof and exit via a mantle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
  • Fatwoman light 6c, overhang, crack, mantle. in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Start slightly to the right of Pif, Paf, Pouf as for Fatwoman , but exit directly in the right crack via a mantle.
  • Rouleau Sauvage 6c, traverse. 50m to the East of Fatwoman , in a quarry zone with lying trees. Start left in the overhang, traverse on the right up to the end of the ledge, come back and exit by a mantle at the starting point.
  • La Tangente du Fou 6b+, dyno. Sector 1. Just right of L’Hypoténuse du Fou . Start with a gaston right hand and the horizontal crack left hand.
  • Doublet 6c+, slightly overhanging, mantle. Sector 1. Left problem in an overhang on the left of La Route du Mont Aigu, at a bend to the right coming down. Start at the horizontal ledge, climb the overhang to the left, take a bidoigt and mantle up above. NB : it is also possible, from the bidoigt, to traverse up to the "nose" of the boulder and exit at this point. see also : Tribune 7b
  • Cholestérol 6c, wall. Sector 2. Second problem from the left on the North face of the first boulder of the sector.
  • Canon Rock 2 6b+, crack, sitstart. Sector 2. Direct crack on the East face of the second boulder of the sector. see also : Canon Rock 1 6a+
  • Contorsion 6c. Sector 2. On the North face of the last boulder of the sector.
  • Indochine 6c+, wall, crimps. Sector 3. on the East face of the boulder of Poison d’Avril and Hold-Up . Start just right of Collez Serrez (morpho) and exit either with the crack right hand (6c) or without (7a). see also : Collez Serrez 7a (6c)
  • Collez Serrez 6c+, wall, crimps. Sector 3. direct problem on the East face of the boulder of Poison d’Avril , without the right crack.
  • Traîtresse 6b+, slab. Sector 3. in between Exile and Joli Cœur . Start on the step, take a vertical crimp and exit with pockets.
  • La Rondelette 6c. Sector 3. to the right of La Route Guillaume Rondelet, on a boulder to the opposite of Poison d’Avril .
  •   32 white 7a,7a+,7b
  • Oiseaux de Proie 7a, traverse. follow the Route du Mont Aigu (GR 11) to the start of the yellow circuit and go up to the right; the traverse is located in a slighly overhanging wall with a flat stone on the ground. NB : lichenous (May 2007).
  • Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. left problem in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Sitstart as for Fatwoman and exit at the same point, by climbing the overhang directly with a fragile flake. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is before a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Fatwoman light en traversée 7a (6c+), Fatwoman 7a (7a+), Goranovsky 7b (7b+), Goranovitch 7b+
  • Fatwoman 7a, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. right problem in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Same start, same exit as Pif, Paf, Pouf , but using the right arete. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is before a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Fatwoman light en traversée 7a (6c+), Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a (7a+), Goranovsky 7b (7b+), Goranovitch 7b+
  • À l’Endroit 7a+, traverse, slopers. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the right angle, traverse on the ledge and exit via a mantle at the left angle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
  • Goranovsky 7b, slightly overhanging, expo, sitstart. in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Sitstart on a flat stone to the left of Fatwoman as for Pif, Paf, Pouf but continue to traverse on the arete and exit by the left angle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is before a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Fatwoman light en traversée 7a (6c+), Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a (7a+), Fatwoman 7a (7a+), Goranovitch 7b+
  • Le Bi se Marque 7a+, roof, mantle, bidoigt. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the left pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Le Bi Haut , climb the roof and exit via a mantle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
  • Carburation Verticale 7a+, arete, slopers, crimps. 10m to the right of Bicarburation .Bicarburation . Standing start with the crimps on the left face, take the right arete and exit by a mantle at the top.
  • Le Bi Haut 7b, mantle, traverse, bidoigt. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the left pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Le Bi se Marque , dyno to the left in the roof and exit via a mantle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
  • Fatwoman light en traversée 7a, overhang, crack, mantle. in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Sitstart completely left in Pif, Paf, Pouf , low traverse up to the bidoigt and exit in Fatwoman light . see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a (7a+), Fatwoman 7a (7a+), Goranovsky 7b (7b+), Goranovitch 7b+
  • L’Hypoténuse du Fou (assis) 7a+, slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart. Sitstart on the left at the pedestal and exit in L’Hypoténuse du Fou . NB : it is also possible to make a sitstart from the right at a good crack (7a+/7b). See also La Diagonale du Fou , L’Hypoténuse du Fou , La Tangente du Fou .
  • À l’Endroit (retour) 7a+. On the boulder of Bicarburation . Start at the left angle, traverse with top holds and exit with the right arete.
  • À l’Endroit (aller-retour) 7b. On the boulder of Bicarburation . Start at the right angle, traverse on the ledge up to the left one, come back and exit via the right arete.
  • La Diagonale du Fou 7a+, overhang, crack. Sector 1. Dyno in 45 degrees overhanging wall. Done with rope.
  • Black or White 7a+, roof. Sector 1. In the cave of Parjure, "Q" mark of the blue trail. Start left without using the stone wall, exit right in the middle of the cave.
  • Tribune 7b, slightly overhanging, mantle. Sector 1. Right problem in an overhang on the left of La Route du Mont Aigu, at a bend to the right coming down. Start from the horizontal ramp and exit right above the slope. see also : Doublet 6c+
  • Vertige Oblique 7a+, wall, expo. Sector 1. Start from the ground in the center of the face, climb the crimpsy wall and finish diagonally to the left, take the oblique arete and exit by a mantle above. NB : this problem is referred to as "P’tit Paradis" in some guidebooks but this is an old confusion with the generic neme of the sector next dor.
  • L’Hypoténuse du Fou 7a, slightly overhanging, dyno. Sector 1. Standing start to the right of La Diagonale du Fou with a horizontal crack, dyno to the arete and exit above. NB : it is also possible to make a sitstart from the right at a good crack (7a+).
  • P’tit Paradis 7a+, wall, expo. Secteur 1. confusion with Vertige Oblique . (near the start of the yellow circuit, 20m underneath La Diagonale du Fou ).
  • Braquage à l’Italienne 7b, arete, traverse, slopers. Sector 3. on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart to the right of the overhang as for Poison d’Avril assis , low traverse to the left up to the start of the arete of Braquage and exit by that one. see also : Braquage 7a+
  • Braquage 7a+, arete, expo, slopers. Sector 3. round arete to the left of Hold-Up on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart with a good hold left hand, climb the arete and exit to the right as for Hold-Up . NB : the pedestal on the left is allowed. see also : Braquage à l’Italienne 7b (7b+)
  • Hold-Up 7a, roof, arete. Sector 3. on the South-Ouest face of the boulder of Collez Serrez . above a small boulder. Start in the pit, dyno to the right arete and exit above. see also : Hold-Up à l’Italienne 7c (7b+)
  • Que la Masse Cote 7b, roof, sitstart. Sector 3. small roof 30m underneath La Diagonale . Sitstart at the right of the overhang, traverse to the left up to the "nose" of the roof and exit above. see also : Que la Masse Cote direct 5+ (6a)
  • Vache de Bouse 7b, slab. Sector 3. small slab in a pit, to the South of the main sector.
  • Cambrure Divine 7b, slightly overhanging, expo, sitstart. Sector 3. evident overhang to the left of Au Creux de la Vague . Sitstart in the pit on a flat stone, climb the pillar and then the overhang and exit above with crimps and the two aretes; morpho.
  • La Diagonale 7a, slab, crimps. Sector 3. on the South face of the boulder of Dalle is not Dead . Start at a good hold, make an ascending traverse on crimps and exit to the right of a small tree. NB : the slab has been rebrushed (June 2012).
  • Dalle is not Dead 7a, slab. Sector 3. right problem on the North face of the boulder of La Diagonale . NB : recently rebrushed (August 2010)..
  • Au Creux de la Vague 7a+, slightly overhanging, prow. Sector 3. on the West face of a boulder near La Route Guillaume Rondelet.
  • Cambrure Divine 7b, slightly overhanging, expo. Sector 3. Evident overhang to the left of Au Creux de la Vague . Standing start in the pit on a flat stone, climb the pillar and then the overhang and exit above with crimps and the two aretes; morpho. See also Cambrure Divine .
  • Poison d’Avril assis 7a+, arete, expo, sitstart. Sector 3. on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart and exit by the slightly overhanging arete of Poison d’Avril . see also : Poison d’Avril 7a, La Traversée de Poison d’Avril 7b+ (7c)
  • Poison d’Avril 7a, slightly overhanging, arete. Sector 3. to the right of Hold-Up . see also : Poison d’Avril assis 7a+, La Traversée de Poison d’Avril 7b+ (7c)
  • Joli Cœur 7b, wall. sector 5. at the right on the boulder of Les Thanatonautes , with a hart-shaped hole. Might be no longer possible after foothold broke off!
  • Exile 7b, slab. sector 5. to the right of Les Thanatonautes . Start to the left of the step (starting point of the 6b+ slab Traîtresse ) and exit directly on crimps.
  •   8 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
  • À l’Envers 7c+, traverse. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the right pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Bloc l’Éponge and continue in Bicarburation . Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Bicarburation 8a
  • Goranovitch 7b+, slightly overhanging, arete, expo. in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Sitstart to the right of Pif, Paf, Pouf as for Fatwoman but continue to traverse on the arete and exit by the left angle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is before a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Fatwoman light en traversée 7a (6c+), Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a (7a+), Fatwoman 7a (7a+), Goranovsky 7b (7b+)
  • Bicarburation (retour) 7c+. Sitstart under the exit angle of Bicarburation , traverse under the roof, continue on the ledge and exit on th eright arete.
  • À l’Endroit (retour-aller) 7b+. On the boulder of Bicarburation . Start at the left angle, traverse to the right with top holds up to the right one, come back and mantle up at the angle above the starting point.
  • Fou de Bleau 7b+, pillar, expo, sitstart. Sector 1. High cracteristic pillar, on the same boulder and to the left of Vertige Oblique , 20m underneath La Diagonale du Fou . Sitstart with the two hands on the lower ledge and exit either directly (7b) or by the right arete to its end (7b+/7c).
  • La Traversée de Poison d’Avril 7b+, arete, expo, traverse. sector 3. fltr on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart completely left as for Braquage with good underclings, low traverse to the right and exit by the slightly overhanging arete of Poison d’Avril . see also : Poison d’Avril 7a, Poison d’Avril assis 7a+
  • Hold-Up à l’Italienne 7c, arete, expo, sitstart. sector 3. on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart on the right of the overhang as for Poison d’Avril assis , low traverse to the left and exit in Hold-Up . see also : Hold-Up 7a
  • Les Thanatonautes 7c, wall. Sector 5. 6m high wall above a big roof alongside La Route des Gorges du Franchard. Only climbs the wall with a right start. see also : Tube 8a
  •   4 burgundy 8a,8a+,8b
  • Bicarburation 8a, roof, traverse, bidoigt. on a slow-drying boulder exposed to the North, at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start to the right and traverse on slopers as for À l’Endroit , pass under the roof and exit on the other side of the boulder. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : À l’Envers 7c+
  • L’Aller-retour de l’Envers 8a. Sitstart at the right pillar of the bivouac entrance as for Bloc l’Éponge , traverse in Bicarburation up to its exit angle, come back under the roof and mantle up slightly right of the starting point.
  • Bicarburation (aller-retour) 8a+. There and back of Bicarburation .
  • Tube 8a, roof, high. sector 5. start in the big roof and exit in Les Thanatonautes . see also : Les Thanatonautes 7c


  • Relier ces petits secteurs se situant dans un rayon de 250 m permet aux grimpeurs moyens qui ne passent pas leur séance sur un bloc d’en avoir pour leurs comptes :
    Secteur 1 (secteur du jaune abandonné, à tord assimilé au petit paradis [1]), secteur * en passant (2 voies), secteur 2, le rocher du renard, puis 3, le petit paradis, retour par 4. Ou dans l’autre sens : 4,3,2,∗,1.
    (5, un bloc, !)



    [1à tord anciennement assimilé au petit paradis sur bleau.info. C’est réparé ... un jour peut être arriverons nous à faire comprendre à bleau.info qu’une bonne coopération ne peut être à sens unique ... psit! il reste 2 erreurs à corriger, voyez ici.

    2012-2019 bLo | SPIPgéo, alum     , , , etc. | | Site Map | Clubs | Contacts | Oteurs

    Unless otherwise specified, ©opyleft licence Creative Commons BY-SA !

    ONF   FFME   FFCAM   FSGT   wikipedia